Water that sits against your foundation, a yard that never dries out, or a wooded lot you want to build on are all grading and clearing jobs. They're also some of the most cost-effective work an excavator does, because fixing drainage protects everything else.
Yard grading and drainage
The ground around a house should slope away from the foundation so roof and surface water drains off instead of soaking into basement walls. Settling backfill, poor original grading and added patios often reverse that slope over time. Angi lists grading and leveling at roughly $400 to $6,500, and hillside leveling at $1 to $12 per cubic yard, with most hillside jobs totaling $1,000 to $5,000.
Typical fixes include regrading to restore slope, swales that carry water around the house, French drains or curtain drains to intercept groundwater, extending downspouts underground, and dry wells or rain gardens where codes allow. A good contractor will look at where water comes from, where it can legally go, and how your neighbors' properties drain.
Land clearing
Land clearing removes trees, brush, stumps and debris so land can be built on, farmed, fenced or used. Angi lists land clearing at about $1,400 to $5,800, with removal of large rocks and trees adding $40 to $100 per cubic foot. Methods include:
- Forestry mulching. A mulching head grinds brush and small trees in place, leaving mulch that protects soil from erosion.
- Excavator or dozer clearing. Trees and stumps are pushed or pulled and then hauled, chipped or burned where permitted.
- Selective clearing. Keeps good trees while removing brush and undergrowth.
- Stump grinding or removal. Grinding is cheaper; pulling stumps is needed under foundations and driveways.
Permits and rules
Clearing and grading can trigger local permits, especially near streams, wetlands and floodplains, and on larger areas. Federal and state stormwater rules apply to larger disturbed areas, and open burning of brush is regulated. Ask your contractor what applies to your parcel.
Erosion control
Bare soil washes away. Silt fence, straw wattles, seeding and mulch keep mud out of streets, ditches and neighbors' yards. On bigger jobs, erosion control is usually required.
Know your soil
The USDA Web Soil Survey shows soil types, drainage class and depth to water table for most parcels. Poorly drained clay soils hold water and are a common reason for soggy yards; sandy soils drain fast but erode easily. Look up your Boone County parcel on the Web Soil Survey before you get quotes.
Tips for a better result
- Clear and grade in drier months when possible to avoid rutting.
- Stockpile topsoil to re-spread after grading.
- Get seed or sod down quickly after final grade.
- Bundle grading with other excavation, such as a driveway or utility trench, to save mobilization.
Driveways and private roads
Gravel driveways and farm lanes are often built by the same crews that do grading and clearing. A durable gravel drive starts with removing topsoil, shaping a crown so water sheds to the sides, installing culverts where the drive crosses ditches, and placing a compacted base of larger stone topped with finer gravel. Angi lists grading a space for a patio or driveway at about $1,000 to $2,500. Culverts at the road usually need approval from the city, county or state road department that owns the ditch.
Ponds
Some excavators build farm and recreation ponds. Pond work needs suitable soil that holds water (clay content matters), a properly designed overflow spillway, and attention to any dam safety, stream or wetland rules that apply. Your county conservation district or extension office can often provide guidance and sometimes site help.
Working with neighbors
Changing how water leaves your property can affect neighbors. Many states follow a reasonable-use rule for surface water, and concentrating runoff onto a neighbor's land can create liability. Talk with your excavator about where water will go, and consider talking with the neighbor before work starts. A drainage plan that keeps water on your property or sends it to an existing ditch or storm sewer is the safe approach.
Signs your yard needs regrading
- Water stands against the foundation after rain.
- The basement or crawlspace gets damp after storms.
- Downspouts dump water that flows back toward the house.
- Soil has settled along the foundation so the ground slopes inward.
- Mulch and soil wash across walks after heavy rain.
Small fixes like downspout extensions and adding soil along the foundation can be DIY. Moving larger amounts of soil, reshaping a yard or adding drains is excavator work.
Before you request quotes: a checklist
- What you're building or fixing, with any site plan, survey or building plans you have.
- Location and access. Gate widths, slopes, soft ground and overhead lines.
- Known buried lines you own, such as lines to sheds, sprinklers, septic tanks and propane lines, which 811 won't mark.
- Soil and water clues. Standing water, wet basements nearby, rock outcrops. The Web Soil Survey helps here.
- Where spoils go. Can extra dirt stay on site, or must it be hauled?
- Restoration. Topsoil, seed, sod or pavement repair expectations.
- Timeline, and the trades that follow the excavator.
- Photos of the work area from a few angles.
Excavation quotes vary more than most trades because so much depends on what's underground. Clear information up front narrows the range.
Serving Columbia and nearby
We take requests from property owners across Columbia and Boone County, including Columbia, Ashland, Hallsville, Centralia, Rocheport, Harrisburg, Sturgeon, Hartsburg, Fulton, Boonville. Coverage depends on contractor availability; tell us your town or ZIP. Before any digging, your contractor contacts Missouri One Call (811) to get buried utilities marked.
Common questions
How much slope should my yard have?
Building codes commonly call for the ground to fall away from the foundation over the first several feet; your builder or local code gives the exact figure.
Can clearing be done in winter?
Often yes, and frozen ground can even help equipment. Grading and seeding usually wait for spring.
What does forestry mulching cost compared with clearing and hauling?
It varies with density and terrain, but mulching often costs less because nothing is hauled away. It's best for brush and small trees, not big hardwoods or stumps under future buildings.
Can I burn brush from clearing?
Open burning is regulated and often needs a permit or is banned in some areas. Ask your local fire department or county.
When is the best time to regrade?
Late spring through early fall, when soil isn't saturated or frozen and seed can establish.